The Archive — Notes on a piece

The first photographs were blue

Anna Atkins made the first book illustrated with photographs — a year before Fox Talbot — by laying plants on paper and leaving them in the sun. She signed it "A.A.", and for decades no one knew she was a woman.
Anna Atkins · Cyanotype · 1851–54 · The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Anna Atkins cyanotype of goat’s-beard: a white plant silhouette on Prussian blue
Anna Atkins, Spiræa aruncus (goat’s-beard), cyanotype, 1851–54. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession 2004.172. Public domain.

In October 1843 a book appeared with no engravings and no woodcuts in it. Every image was a photograph — the first book ever illustrated that way, some eight months before Fox Talbot's Pencil of Nature.1 Its author was a botanist named Anna Atkins, and she made the pictures without a camera.

How to photograph a shadow

The process was a year old. In 1842 the astronomer John Herschel, a friend of Atkins's family, invented the cyanotype: paper brushed with iron salts, dried in the dark, then laid under an object and left in the sun.2 Where the light struck, the paper turned Prussian blue; where the plant blocked it, the paper stayed white. No lens, no negative, no camera — the specimen printed its own silhouette, life-size, in blue.3 This is a cyanotype of Spiraea aruncus, goat's-beard.4

A.A.

Atkins signed her books with her initials only — "A.A." Read cold, they were taken for an anonymous amateur, and an amateur was assumed to be a man; she was not identified as the author until 1889, years after her death.5 Her father was a scientist at the British Museum, and she had cut some two hundred and fifty engravings for one of his translations before she ever touched the cyanotype.6 The blue book was hers.

Science that looks like the future

Photographs of British Algae was a scientific record — a way to fix seaweeds too fine to draw by hand, in her own words "to obtain impressions of the plants themselves."7 Only a dozen or so substantially complete copies survive.8 But the images outran their purpose. A white plant afloat on deep blue reads less like a specimen sheet than like something made yesterday.

A cyanotype is already what you want on a shirt: a flat, two-colour print, white on blue, made by light. Nothing here is redrawn. The garment is the blue; the ink is the shadow the plant left in the sun.

The original as it is held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (2004.172, CC0) — the cyanotype this shirt is lifted from, not a redrawing of it.
model-front
Anna Atkins · $39 founders price
The document itself.
Curated in Mar del Plata, printed in the USA.
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Notes & sources

  1. Photographs of British Algae: Cyanotype Impressions, Part I, October 1843 — the first book illustrated with photographs; it precedes Talbot's The Pencil of Nature (June 1844). New York Public Library; Bodleian Library.
  2. The cyanotype was invented by Sir John Herschel in 1842; Herschel was a friend of Atkins's family. Harry Ransom Center.
  3. Iron-salt paper, contact-printed in sunlight — Prussian blue where exposed, white under the object; no camera or negative, printed life-size. Kew.
  4. Spiraea aruncus (Tyrol), cyanotype, 1851–54. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession 2004.172; public domain.
  5. Signed only "A.A." and taken for an anonymous (male) amateur; not identified as the author until 1889. Smithsonian Ocean.
  6. Atkins made ~250 engravings for her father J. G. Children's translation of Lamarck's Genera of Shells (1823). Britannica.
  7. "…to avail myself of Sir John Herschel's beautiful process of Cyanotype, to obtain impressions of the plants themselves." Preface, British Algae (1843), verbatim.
  8. About a dozen substantially complete copies survive. NYPL; Natural History Museum.
MÉTRICA · THE ARCHIVE · MAR DEL PLATA · PRINTED IN THE USA